- Prepping the raw birdhouse: Removed the top (ie the nose cone); drilled a hole in the base for the 24mm motor tube; and realigned 3 of the four fins.
- Body: Cut a piece of 2.5" Giant Leap phenolic tubing to fit; mounted a short 24mm motor tube using one centering ring; slid this in from the top; epoxied a Kevlar leader in the base next to the motor tube; and added a bolt through the base to provide positive motor retention..
- Nose cone: Made a shoulder from a sectioned piece of the 2.5" tubing; cut two bulkheads using a hole saw; one bulkhead is abutted to the base of the cone; slipped the shoulder over that; added an eye bolt to the second ring; and used it to cap off the shoulder.
- Nose weight: I drilled a 1/2" hole through both bulkheads and the cone's base. After assembly is complete, I'll add nose weight until the desired static margin is achieved.
- Fins: I decided to use the stock fins augmented with clear Lexan extensions. I also decided not to try to make them ala the Raygun Gothic Rocketship. Too much work and, after all, they are clear. Version 2 will have plywood fins in that general style. The Lexan fins will be screwed to the sides of the stock fins. Fins are cut and holes are drilled. They were hand cut with a Dremel diamond cut-off wheel so they need to be stacked and sanded to match. This will be done at this weekend's build session.
- Launch lug: This is half of a First Fire igniter tube mounted between the widest point in the body and one fin.
- Finishing: I decided to keep a rough look so I filled only a few deep dings and the rough fin edges. I shot a coat of primer, not to fill the grain but to provide a uniform color base. I then painted the body silver.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Raygun Gothic Birdhouse - status
I'm not near the Dungeon so I have to go without a photo. The rocket is almost there. I pretty much just need to even up the fins and then figure out how much nose weight is needed. Here is what I've done so far: